Book Review: Sewing Lingerie (1991)

As part of the Singer Reference Library, the Sewing Lingerie book from 1991 covers lingerie construction from fabric, lace, and elastic selection to how to construct beautifully detailed custom lingerie.

For the lace instructions covers lace overlays, appliqué, motif matching, and lace insertion techniques. I was amazed by how thorough and extensive the information all presented with step-by-step photos. While I lack the motivation or inclination to make my own lingerie past simple knit underwear, this book should be all that is desired for anyone else to take on the task. Other things included are how to cut woven fabric on the bias and takes you through the construction of basic bikini briefs to slips, tap pants, teddies, dressy robes, kimonos, and flannel-lined silk robes.

For a more thorough review, check out this one by Renee from Miss Celie's Pants.

The fact that the book is long out-of-print should not be a negative. Though the book can still be found in some local libraries, the book can also be found through numerous Internet booksellers. I purchased two other volumes of this Singer series (The Perfect Fit and Sewing Pants That Fit) from Alibris.com for only $.99 each! Though I might not see myself using this book to its fullest, I will probably locate and purchase a copy just for the individual techniques. Therefore, I highly recommend this book.

Fashion In Film: Irma la Douce (1963)

Director: Billy Wilder
Shirley MacLaine, Jack Lemmon
Costume Design: Orry-Kelly
 

Jack Lemmon and Shirley Mclaine

I have always been intrigued by this movie. I found out about it years after watching these two actors in the an earlier Billy Wilder-directed The Apartment (1960). Finding these two very American actors starring in a French sex farce with Lemmon as a policeman and Shirley as one of the best prostitutes in France sounds like a huge mismatch. Here is a discussion of the film on auteurcast.com. Adapted from the 1956 Broadway musical, the movie was a hit and I'm sure I wasn't the only person who loved the interaction of these two actors together. I wish they had made more movies together. Can't you imagine them in an incredible (but offbeat) production of Taming of the Shrew?

The costuming of this movie is another reason to love it, Irma's wardrobe in particular. In the movie, Irma La Douce (aka Irma the sweet), has a favorite color that is represented in her wardrobe at all times. Her stockings, lingerie, and even her eye shadow come in the same lovely billiard table green. Her precious pooch, Coquette, is always sporting a green bow to match.

My favorite movie costume designer, Orry-Kelly, created some great outfits for this movie, which also included cool costumes for the many ladies of the night, sailors, pimps, eccentric gentlemen, and police (gendarmes) characters in the cast.*

 

Shirley on the cover of LIFE magazine, June 21, 1963.

When we first meet Irma she is not dressed as provocatively as her friends and competitors, though later oufits make it pretty clear what she does for a living.

Loving the see-through raincoat and the matching green barrettes on Irma and Coquette. A quick look at other images from this scene show that the dog is wearing her own translucent rain slicker too!

The suit looked black in the movie, but I have a feeling that it might have actually been a very dark green, as in the first photo above.

 

Is that apartment for real?!

I included so many pictures of this negligee because it is so amazing. This piece and the green lace top/bra below were my lasting visual memories of this film. Though it is see-through it reveals nothing but the belly button and cleavage, yet it is sexier than a skimpier outfit would be. I wouldn't be surprised to find that Shirley kept this after the filming...I would! Note the matching billiard green marabou mules. I've always found boudoir shoes decadent...but I guess that's the appeal. The use of the green lace and sheer net is genius. I wonder if you could find those materials in that particular shade of green today? Another amazing thing about the lingerie in this movie is how well it shows off MacLaine's dancer figure and that the engineered structure of the bras were giving her "girls" LIFE!



On the set.



Another fashion-filled Shirley Maclaine film to check out would be the amazing What A Way To Go(1964) with costumes by Edith Head. There are seventy-three!! different costumes for Shirley's character alone! One day I'll try to chronicle the fashion from that movie, though it might take a long time and will probably be in installments! 

* Watch out for cameos by Bill Bixby and James Caan.

Images: Leo Fuchs, Gjon Mili (Life photo)

Homemade Knickers - Indigorchid Underwear #705

Pattern: Indigorchid T-shirt Underwear #705 (free pattern download) and online tutorials. (2011)

Pattern Description: Bikini-style underwear with side seams, a double-layer crotch gusset, and elastic waist and leg-openings.

Pattern Sizing: (XS-S-M-L) I made the large size.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, especially because the site provided online tutorials for the construction and alternative finishing options.

 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  Besides the pattern being free? Well, I liked that this was the only tutorial I found that resulted in a lining/gusset that had completely enclosed seams. It results in a more professional finish. Other tutorials left one side open. 

Attaching the fold-over elastic.

Fabric Used: Jersey/Lycra knit scraps, an old t-shirt, 3/8" wide Dritz elastic, and fold-over elastic* ($.89 per yard) from G Street Fabrics.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:  I altered the back pattern piece to account for my coverage needs. I'm not a fan of boy shorts or "cheekies" so this change was necessary for me. Otherwise, I followed the given instructions and attached the fold-over elastic to the legs. I would have used it for the waist but I didn't like the way the elastic behaved, twisting the leg holes every-which-way.

I instead used 3/8" wide elastic. I joined the ends to form a circle, marked it in quarters, and pinned to the waistline at four equidistant points. Using a small narrow zig zag, I stitched the elastic first to the right side (stretching it between pins to fit the fabric), then flipped it over to the back, and stitched two parallel rows of zig-zags. Easy-peasy.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes and yes, the instructions were excellent. I have some too-small St. Louis, MO and Guinness Dublin souvenir t-shirts all ready to be the next pairs.

• Lauren Dahl's tutorial specifically deals with using fold-over elastic for both the waist and legs.
• This very informative tutorial from Sarah Seitz is picture-filled for visual learners.

Conclusion: With this pattern I can now make my own underwear in colors and prints that I can't find in stores. It's also a great way to use up jersey scraps already in my stash and leftover from the knit tops I plan on making in the future.

*Here are some sources for colorful fold-over elastic, Sew Sassy and The Fabric Fairy. I personally found the prices at Joann and Hancocks too expensive.

Images: My own photos.

From Me to You:

When I found this sweater pattern in my friend's 1941 copy of the British Weldon's Home Dressmaker, no. 562, I decided to type it up and offer it to anyone interested in making it up.

It is a Word document, I can also convert it to rich text or plain text, if needed. If you would like a copy just send me an email via this blog or comment below with your email address and I'll send it to you.

To see more scans from this particular issue focusing on homemade lingerie, The Prettiest Undies, check it out in my Flickr set here.

Slips, They Make Me Feel Dainty...

I saw Gertie's tutorial and I knew I had to try it. I already had fabric purchased for making some slips a while ago. However, I had lost my motivation once I found out the pattern I wanted to use was not suitable for this fabric. Update: I forgot to say what the fabric is. This is lining fabric but it has a sueded finish to it as opposed to a slick surface. Nothing expensive, about $5 a yard from Jo-Anns.

I used Stretchrite lingerie elastic (64% poly/36% rubber) from Jo-anns. It came in a dual pack with 30" of 1/2" wide for waistbands and 54" of 5/16" wide for legbands. As it turns out, I preferred the more narrow elastic (legband) for the waist of the slips. I will try to use this technique as much as possible. It's very similar to the look of the Vogue skirt in that, once on, the elastic doesn't add bulk to your waist because it and the fabric stretches just enough to fit. With both designs you need just enough width to get it past your hips.

Wrights 3/4" wide Flexi-Lace hem tape in #167 Colonial Rose*

For the hem, I originally tried to find wider scalloped lace but there was only black and white available in Jo-ann and Hancock Fabrics. I wanted to try more sophisticated combinations like Angry Chicken did with her homemade underwear. What I did find was this cool aged rose color to spice up the ho-hum pale pink color of the fabric. If my first thought hadn't been to buy one color that would work with both fabrics I probably would have used lavender on the blue and orange on the pink. Perhaps, next time?



I ended up making three slips in different lengths, 16", 17" and 22". The two I made in pink for shorter skirts and dresses, I finished with the lace trim in two different ways. The first one I applied the lace 1/4 inch over the edge of the fabric, stitching close to the edge of the lace, and then folded the fabric back up and stitched again. With the second slip I thought I was doing it the same way but I ended up sewing the lace near the bottom edge; therefore, having it peek down from behind the skirt. I prefer this look.

I decided against using the pink lace on the longer dark blue slip and luckily Gertie had also posted an alternative way (the scallop stitch) to finish the hem, which is the way I decided to go with this one. Even though I had read the instructions before; when I got down to doing it I totally forgot about using spray starch to stabilize the fabric. Luckily, it still worked out and my needle didn't get jammed and ruin the stitch on the slinky fabric.

I officially will never buy another half-slip again! These were so simple and quick (less than two hours to make all three) that I highly recommend them even for beginner sewers/sewists.

* The color of the pink slips and lace are more accurate in the pre-sewn picture.

Just a teaser...

Sorry for the blur.

Three different decorative hem treatments. Details forthcoming.

I have been working...

and I have some sewing to show you. However, I first have to get myself motivated to write about them and get situated for the photo shoots!

I now have a purple knit top that I love and three (yes, count that again if you must!) three lingerie slips that I made from Gertie's great tutorial. Hopefully I'll get myself together before the day is over. Right now I'm gonna read some more (How To Have Style by Isaac Mizrahi) and maybe take a little nap.

If you're cooking out today, have some potato salad for me.